Stollenwurm on the cover of Wristwatch Annual 2026. The fool is not an idiot!
This annual “Bible” of the watch industry – not my term for it, I would not be so immodest – published the hard way, on paper, by Abbeville Press, is essentially a labor of love. Its first mission is to take a bird’s-eye view of the industry and showcase new models. So, you’ll find all the favorites — Patek, Cartier, Lange & Söhne, Breitling, and Rolex, of course — plus various calibers, the heart of every great timepiece, from simple to complex.
Zeroo from Japan… very modern, very clever, and excellent price point.
Over the past few years, however, I have striven to show a greater number of independents and small brands from around the world. Have you ever heard of Detroit Watch Company (and Yellowstone)? Or Vario from Singapore? What about Azimuth in the A’s, or Zeitwinkel and Zeroo in the Z’s? These companies or individuals often pro
Om mani padme hum on your seconds wheel!
duce outstanding timepieces that should spark the interest of the adventurous collector.
Martin Klocke: Let your watch spread the prayers.
For three years now, I have also turned the spotlight onto brands from other countries, like Australia (Curtis Australia) and China (Shanghai, Hedone, CIGA Design).
Beginners might also find that you don’t have to mortgage your home to purchase a watch. Luxury is not about price; it’s about what you, you, and you like. It’s also the intrinsic value of a gift from a friend or loved one, or a “found” watch.
Big question I get often: Why buy a mechanical watch when you have a telephone that tells the time? The answer to that question can be found in the first 50 pages of Wristwatch Annual. The chapters are devoted to the independents, technique, design, people, and other transversal subjects. This year, for instance, Stollenwurm, a new brand, sponsored the cover, and became the trigger for a chapter entitled “Magic Watches,” timepieces that let you wear a “spiritual” message on your wrist.
Another chapter is devoted to British watchmaking, which led the world until the Swiss and Americans industrialized their production and innovated, notably the Swiss with their brand-new lever escapement. As one expert told me, “Instead of embracing the paradigm shift that was happening both in the market opportunity and in manufacturing, Britain tried to remain a ‘cottage’ industry.”
Well, cottage industry is now very much in favor, as it means independence, creativity, boldness — to the point of quirkiness.
As for People: Meet Stéphane von Gunten, whose journey to the Honoris took him all the way back to a great-great-grandfather and a Pope — Leo XIII.
Stéphane von Gunten: The Honoris I delivers power for 1,000 hours on a single spring…
And the Technique section this year is an invitation to purchase your first watch by actually making it! Yes, you can do it yourself either in Switzerland or in the comfort of your own home. Among the companies are Initium, which runs seminars in the Jura and in Geneva. For a deeper dive, get in touch with Paul Gerber in Zurich. His three-day seminars will make you feel like a master watchmaker — almost. For more on this genius, click here. And if fidgeting with tiny parts is too much, there is always the Persée, a kit designed by Alcée Monfotr, which actually won a prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in 2024.
Alcée Montfort and her Persée…. kits for around $10,000 to $16,000
Finally, let me remind people — time is elusive, yet ubiquitous. Without pomp and ceremony, it remains a most valuable and finite commodity. What better way to honor it than housing it in a delicate vessel? As for Wristwatch Annual, it is also an invitation to relax with a cup or glass of something, some snacks, and take in its almost 330 pages devoted to the world of watchmaking.
Konstantin Chaykin: brilliant and tongue in cheek.
With thanks to our advertisers, who have understood that while the Internet is a great place, anything there is fleeting and tends even to be an irritation to the web-user. Paper, by contrast, remains.
